15 August 2013

Steering rack

.Today is the day.

My steering rack is getting swapped out.  At least temporarily, as I want to do some sandblasting underneath prior to a full install.  But if I want to have any near use of the van I need to get the bad inner tie rods out.

Just waiting on my rack bellows to show up.  Could not find the ones I ordered months ago, so a new set is set to arrive by 5 pm today.  Tie rod's urethane Imron is cured, new Redline waterproof grease in the rack, Powerflex rack mount bushings are installed and with new hardware - I am ready to rock.

EDIT - bellows arrived by noon, so as soon as I was done working for someone else I started working for myself.  Within a couple hours I had the racks swapped, my oil changed and I also checked my CV bolts. It's an easy job.


First I finished building the 'new'rack.  Slipped the bellows on the newly painted tie rod assemblies and screwed them into the ramrods of the steering rack.  Lubed up the ramrods liberally with some Redline waterproof grease and slid the bellows into place.  Secured them with some zip ties and moved on to the mounts.

I used a Powerflex bushing mount kit i got from Chris at T3 Technique and quickly got these installed with plenty of Redline waterproof grease within. Make sure the jam nuts on the outer tie rods were loose and moved on to getting the other rack out.

Really a simple job. All you really need is a needle nose pliers, a pair of 13mm wrenches, safety glasses, maybe a hammer and penetrant.  First spray the 4 mount bolts, the 4 steering knuckle bolts, the 2 tie rod nuts.  I put the van up on ramps to provide plenty of work room, but kept the wheels straight.  If you have solid wheels, you may need to take off one of the tie rod assemblies from one side.  

Undo the cotter pins at the tie rod ends / spindle knuckle and remove the castle nuts.  Tap the tie rod shaft with the hammer to release the tie rod end.  Once released, undo the 4 bolts on the steering knuckle and remove to inspect.  These deteriorate, so check them out well.  All that is left is the 4 bolts holding the rack to the body.  Remove them with the two wrenches (or wrench and socket/ratchet) and set them aside, particularly the thick washers.  Now the rack is loose.

I was able to slide the rack to one side, using the hole in the wheel to pass through enough to gain clearance on the other side and drop it down and out.  The new one went back in the same way.

Once in place, I had the large washers (I sandblasted and painted black) with some stainless ones I put on top to keep the look clean.  Using the new bolts I bought and new locknuts, I fastened the rack to the chassis.  I then bolted the new steering knuckle up with the 4 bolts / nuts.

Getting to the tie rod ends next, I had approximated the length with the ones that came out (measured total length of assembly and adjusted accordingly).  Now affix the tie rod shaft to the spindle knuckle with the new nut and cotter pin.  I use anti seize on this shaft, as you never know when you may have to remove it again.  

I also use anti seize on the steering knuckle bolts.  There is a lot of weather beating down there.


The purple is the Powerflex bushing.  Then the stock thick washer and my addition of the stainless cap washer.









1 comment:

  1. Hi your story is nice and very interesting and the photos you have given is nice which is full usable of cotter pins with tie rod ends.

    DIN 1434 | DIN 1435 | DIN 1436

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