Steering rack

.Today is the day.

My steering rack is getting swapped out.  At least temporarily, as I want to do some sandblasting underneath prior to a full install.  But if I want to have any near use of the van I need to get the bad inner tie rods out.

Just waiting on my rack bellows to show up.  Could not find the ones I ordered months ago, so a new set is set to arrive by 5 pm today.  Tie rod's urethane Imron is cured, new Redline waterproof grease in the rack, Powerflex rack mount bushings are installed and with new hardware - I am ready to rock.

EDIT - bellows arrived by noon, so as soon as I was done working for someone else I started working for myself.  Within a couple hours I had the racks swapped, my oil changed and I also checked my CV bolts. It's an easy job.

First I finished building the 'new'rack.  Slipped the bellows on the newly painted tie rod assemblies and screwed them into the ramrods of the steering rack.  Lubed up the ramrods liberally with some Redline waterproof grease and slid the bellows into place.  Secured them with some zip ties and moved on to the mounts.

I used a Powerflex bushing mount kit i got from Chris at T3 Technique and quickly got these installed with plenty of Redline waterproof grease within. Make sure the jam nuts on the outer tie rods were loose and moved on to getting the other rack out.

Really a simple job. All you really need is a needle nose pliers, a pair of 13mm wrenches, safety glasses, maybe a hammer and penetrant.  First spray the 4 mount bolts, the 4 steering knuckle bolts, the 2 tie rod nuts.  I put the van up on ramps to provide plenty of work room, but kept the wheels straight.  If you have solid wheels, you may need to take off one of the tie rod assemblies from one side.  

Undo the cotter pins at the tie rod ends / spindle knuckle and remove the castle nuts.  Tap the tie rod shaft with the hammer to release the tie rod end.  Once released, undo the 4 bolts on the steering knuckle and remove to inspect.  These deteriorate, so check them out well.  All that is left is the 4 bolts holding the rack to the body.  Remove them with the two wrenches (or wrench and socket/ratchet) and set them aside, particularly the thick washers.  Now the rack is loose.

I was able to slide the rack to one side, using the hole in the wheel to pass through enough to gain clearance on the other side and drop it down and out.  The new one went back in the same way.

Once in place, I had the large washers (I sandblasted and painted black) with some stainless ones I put on top to keep the look clean.  Using the new bolts I bought and new locknuts, I fastened the rack to the chassis.  I then bolted the new steering knuckle up with the 4 bolts / nuts.

Getting to the tie rod ends next, I had approximated the length with the ones that came out (measured total length of assembly and adjusted accordingly).  Now affix the tie rod shaft to the spindle knuckle with the new nut and cotter pin.  I use anti seize on this shaft, as you never know when you may have to remove it again.  

I also use anti seize on the steering knuckle bolts.  There is a lot of weather beating down there.

The purple is the Powerflex bushing.  Then the stock thick washer and my addition of the stainless cap washer.

Even more front end work

In between trips to Denver and Atlanta, I got a bit of 'ME' time in the garage. 

Started by finishing the sandblasting.

Got everything done except the sway bar as it was too large for the cabinet. That included the spindles, dust covers, radius arms, upper and lower control arms, control arm knuckles, sway bar clamps, and a bunch of other miscellaneous stuff.

Cleaned up with some enamel reducer.  I set them up like VW lawn art and got to priming.  Using the Metalok primer again, as I like how it covers and the funky mustard color will make it easier to paint the black color.

Moved the van far enough away so that overspray would not be a problem, mixed up the glossy black Imron paint (because I had some in the garage, otherwise I may have chosen a matte finish).

Baking rack makes a great drying rack, and an old rotor is perfect to screw in the tie rod assemblies for painting and drying.  I will let them sit this way for a few days to allow the urethane to properly cure before installing the Powerflex bushings.  Then we are set to do the install.

Also cleaned up the replacement steering rack and installed the Powerflex kit.  That will get installed in the next few days as my passenger inner tie rod is toast.

So in the middle of this process, my spiffy 16 month old 60 gallon Kobalt compressor went south.  Once it got hot, it seized up tighter than a mouses sphincter. Would only get to 65 psi.  I was fit to be tied I was so angry.  Here I was about to finalize the preparations for the front end, and no more air.

Called the number on the side of the unit, which got me to Lowe's customer service.  Some woman with a slow South Carolina drawl started trying to talk me off the edge.  She must have apologized a dozen times in the first minute but ultimately stated that I needed to bring this 250 pound compressor (that is hard lined, hard wired and bolted to the floor) into Lowe's for them to send it out and repair it.  Now the sticker that is still on the side of this unit states that there is a 3 year hassle free guarantee and on site service, and I bought the extended warranty on top of this, but I still need to bring it in?

Completely did not make sense, and this woman's accent was really getting under my skin because all I can imagine is a heavy Paula Dean type sitting in a cubicle with an extra heavy duty chair to support her Bon Bon inhaling body talking around the the issue as if I was lying about what is stated on the side of the unit.  I thanked her for her time, followed by a comment stating that she has not helped anything nor my confidence in anything Lowe's sells. And to have a thoroughly un-enjoyable day - but I said it very nicely and with a slow drawl so she would fully understand.  I was getting no where fast, and angrier by the second.  After all, when you spend $700 on a compressor you have certain expectations.  And I am by no means a constant user of the unit, so for it to die this soon baffles me.  If I were a constant user, I would have bought a higher quality unit.

For this last half of the conversation, I had been watched by my wife.  She later told me she has never seen me so angry and now knows why I got into so much trouble as a child with all the fighting.  Anyway . . .

Took a few breaths, grabbed my paperwork, the sticker on the side of the unit and headed to my local Lowe's.  I was polite in explaining my story to the assistant manager at the entry door.  Within minutes I was surrounded by more blue vests (managers) than I knew existed at any one time at a single Lowe's. A call into corporate on how to do the exchange led to a profuse apology from the manager for the customer service person (who was obviously wrong) and that they will exchange the unit.

Now to find a time to get it swapped out - and prior to doing so I need to disconnect power, hard air lines and detach from floor.  They state they could swap the next day.  Great!  BUT, in order to do so I would need to buy the new one and then when the old one shows up, they would refund the original purchase.  Just happens that this day was a Massachusetts state tax holiday - so I saved tax, and my delivery costs.  So when the older compressor is refunded, my new cost will be $100 less than original cost.

Guess that helps offset the hassle.  My warranty will restart as day one when the unit is delivered.  Best reasonable outcome I can think of?

Vermont's Green Mountains

So this week work had me in the Green Mountains of Vermont, specifically Stowe.  

I know, it's a tough assignment, but someone has to do it. :)

Trouble is, when dealing with food folk - sometimes the hours are not as conducive to sight seeing. 

Driving up to Stowe for a 6 am breakfast start is nice enough, but getting out by 2 and having time to see things rocks!

Served 250 people breakfast in an hour for my client, cleaned up and made sure we were set for next day.

Upon release, we did the touristy things:

The Von Trapp family lodge

After a couple flights, I was tempted to run own the hill singing 'the hills are alive' but the local police stopped in for lunch and I did not need any more attention. Not after those two flights.

Then we hit Ben and Jerry's for a sweet fix, and to see the dead flavor cemetery.  

Found this at the Matterhorn:

A BBQ rig set up in a VW bug.  Clever marketing.

Then, socially lubricated to the right setting, it was time for the alpine slide.

I found the slide to be a tad lame, but the views were breathtaking.

Then it was time for a nap before dinner, all to do it again in the morning.

White Mountains

There are endless things to do up in NH's White Mountains.

The Lil one and I went back this weekend.

Camped on the Kancamagus again.

Found our way to Monkey Trunks which was an aerial adventure area.

Then we did some go kart racing and a bit of golf.

All in all, good fun.

Van is shaking a bit more.  Will need to get the remainder of the parts quick and get it done.  Rear brakes feel like they need adjustment as well.

May end up replacing the steering rack, tie rods and bushings along with the sway bar prior to doing the rest.  Not sure I will have time prior to our planned trip to NC to get it all done.  That means I will have to take it out again to do my full cleanup under there, but it will be good for the trip.

More front end work

So I have been trying to determine a sure fire way to get those three bolts out for the readers.

PB Blaster or some sort of penetrant is definitely necessary, over time.

This week I had to fly to Denver for work so I put the lower arm in the press and put some pressure on it to see what would happen after three days.  I was secretly hoping that constant pressure would have it pushed out when I got back.  Alas, that was not to be.

However, after the three days and a couple days prior of multiple penetrant applications, the 5 pound sledge popped that bolt right out with a few taps.  Now for the other two.  More penetrant last night, and put it into the press.

Will see where that gets me later today.

Got notification this morning that my 88 spindles were sent from CA a couple days ago.  Now to order my big brake kit. 

There is a whole heap of effort going into this particular Thingamajigger project, but I know it will pay off in spades.  Having a quiet and responsive suspension under the old girl will be a very comforting feeling, especially since my other vehicles ride this way.  No more shakes, wind gust directional changes, white knuckles or unnecessary road noise.  And having the additional stopping power will be more than welcome.

Gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling just thinking about it.

2 August 13 Update: second bolt didn't do anything in the press except start to mushroom on the end.  Looking into other options - probably lots of heat.

Front end work

Oooooh, the long awaited front end rebuild is finally starting.  Through no ones fault but my own, I have procrastinated long enough.

Today I started the process by stripping the front end out of my 84 tintop parts van.  The parts van is in remarkably great condition, without a hint of seam rust.  Too bad it does not have a title.

The van was bought from a woman who stated that it was her daughters, but when I asked why she was selling it the woman stated that her daughter has been dead for 12 years and it was time to let it go.  She herself had a burgundy tintop, 88 I think.

Anyway, tearing out the front end was easier than expected.  I figured everything would be rusted together, but I was pleasantly surprised how easy that it all came apart.

Started by loosening the lug bolts, lifting van and putting on jack stands.  Always use the jack stands, do not ever trust a jack to hold up a vehicle that you will be working on.

After removing the wheels, I removed the brake caliper and set aside without putting pressure on the brake line.  I then placed a jack under the passenger lower control arm (away from hole the provides access to the shock) and took the pressure off the shock absorber.  Remove the top 17mm nut, and the lower through bolt and the shock and the shock sleeve will drop out the bottom.  then i jacked it up some more taking the pressure off the upper ball joint.  Removed the two hex bolts, and the large nut on the end of the radius arm, and lowered the jack and the lower arm.  That opens up the spring for easier removal.  I use an internally actuated spring compressor that I have from my old S420, works great.

At this point, you may find it easier to remove the nut on the bottom of the sway bar link as well.

After removing the spring, I removed the upper control arm - 19mm nut, and large ass (don't remember size) hex wrench does it.  When removing bolt, make sure to get cam washers too.  You will want to reuse this bolt if possible, a replacement is in the neighborhood of $70 each.

Remove the cotter pin on the tie rod end, and 19mm wrench to remove nut.  Few taps on the sides of the knuckle it attaches to and a few more on the threaded portion of the tie rod should knock it loose.

Now you can tilt the spindle assembly forward and get to that lower ball joint nut.  Loosen that up, give a few taps on the sides of the knuckle and then tap the end of the ball joint threaded portion and the spindle assembly drops.  Without a caliper line, or a tie rod connected you should be able to pull that out and put aside.  On the drivers side,you will have the speedo cable going through the spindle and attaching (via a circlip) to the rotor cap.  Undo the clip and you can pull the speedo cable through the back of the spindle.

Now you are left with the lower control arm and the attached radius arm.  Don't you think you are going to get the radius rod detached from the control arm in the van.  That sucker won't budge.  It has to be taken out in one connected piece.  Do this by removing the lower control arm bolt, which if its like my van will not be easy (at all).  Once that bolt is out though, the radius arm can be slid out of its little hole too.  I needed to cut the head off the bolt, and part of the tail in order to slide it through the mount point.  Hopefully the press and some heat will allow it to come out easier.

Repeat on other side.

If doing the rack as well, there are 4 bolts holding the rack to the van, and two bolts holding the steering column to the rack.  Also with the sway bar, there are 4 bolts holding that bar in place, through two u clamps at each frame rail.

I did not take pictures as I was on a time crunch, but will take some and augment my descriptives at a later point after removing the same pieces from the Thingamajigger.

Time to go home and get cleaned up.

That's paint under the dirt!

Update: started taking the lower control arm apart.  Those three bolts holding the radius arm and ball joint knuckle are a b*tch.  One came out with 5pound sledge and a punch, the second with heat, but the third - ooh that one really put me through the ringer.

28 July - started disassembly again this morning.   Started with something easy - the upper control arms. These each have two tack welds on the arm to bushing connection.

These obviously need to be ground off completely, otherwise it will not slide out.

I put one of the arms into my 12 ton press ($100 at Harbor Freight) and thought to use the through bolt and washer to push out the bushing.  Sprayed with some PB Blaster to add some lubrication.

 Here was my setup.  Worked well until I found two plastic bushings in the other control arm. Those just blew apart in the press, and I needed to shift gears.  I used one of the removed bushings as a proper diameter push rod.  I pushed just enough to get it started and not to get the push bushing stuck.  Then a hammer and drift to get it the rest of the way out.

Once those were complete, I brought them to the sandblast cabinet.  

Now these are ready for some paint.

The sandblasting was interrupted with two hose blow outs, one moisture blockage and an incident with a shop vac.  

The blow outs were due to the cheap hose that comes with the unit.  Some air hose will take care of this.  The moisture issue was rectified by my adding my water filter from before the supply line to cabinet to after (attached directly to cabinet).  Worked fine after that.  Humid day, compressor getting worked creates water.  It condensates in the hose. I think I will get another to permanently mount on blast cabinet.  

The shop vac incident was the last straw today - I packed it up after that.  I described in an earlier post how I sealed up the cabinet nice and tight.  Well, with all the blasting I was doing, I was becoming aggravated with the dust cloud and not being able to see inside the cabinet.  The cabinet comes with a port to connect a dust eliminator, so why not the shop vac?  

I removed the air cover on the back of the unit, connected the shop vac and turned it on.  I watched the dust go away, then the gloves rise up and inflate, and before I could turn it off, the glass imploded. Too much suction, even with the vent hole opened! So much for extra sealing.  

My shop vac is a standard Ridgid with a dust collection filter for those wanting to try this on your own.

Exterior table for Vanagon.

Second task for today was to build a table support for the outside of the van.

Using one of my jacks (I carry two to steady the van while camping, keeps it from rocking too much when sleeping), I ground off the paint on one side for welding.

I cut a piece of 1/4 inch by 1.5 inch bar stock eight inches long.

I then removed the mounting tabs on a Westy front table mount so that I had a round piece with only the attached nut.  I also ground away some of the galvanized coating so my welds would be decent.

Locating the piece of bar stock, slightly angled from the crank handle side of the jack, I tack welded it on.  I then located the round table receiver in a manner that the cranking would not interfere, nor the hand knob operation.

After trying the jack in the position I wanted, and its full operation:

Now that it works as I envisioned, I finished welding it up. I left the welds to the jack minimal in case the jack fails, and I can cut off and then replace the jack portion.

Then I brought it to the sandblast cabinet, blasted off the rest of the galvanization and welding slag.  Cleaned it with the enamel reducer, and sprayed it black.

She is now ready to camp. Pretty spiffy.

I dislike single use items in the van, now this jack has three purposes.

I also realized I had not added a cigar recommendation as of late.

These are my current favorites: