Started monkeying with transmission

I have done dozens of transmission swaps before, but I like when I can just follow a given set of directions and be a mindless monkey sometimes.

http://volksweb.relitech.com/clutch.htm

This guy did a good write up on the R&R of a manual transmission.  The only thing about the removal that I would add is that it is easier to undo the throttle cable while transmission is in the installed position rather than hanging half way out.  The throttle cable mounts through a bracket on the opposite side of where the slave cylinder mounts up.

Have seals for the engine, now I need the clutch kit.

Typical.  I had been doing this all alone, all day in the rain.  As soon as I get the transmission out and up on this bucket for a little degreasing, someone shows up and offers to assist.
I will wait until tomorrow to clean it.  Break out some of the heavy duty kitchen degreaser we use in professional kitchens and the power washer so this baby will be a delight to reinstall.

Pop top

Had a really nice day today, so I thought the best way to start the day would be the installation of a new pop top seal.  I first laid out all the seals across the yard for the sun to warm them and remove the spiral wound look.
Then I set out to remove the luggage rack.  The instructions with the GoWesty kit state to loosen but not to remove the rear 4 nuts on the luggage rack.  One look under the rack and I knew I needed to take it off.

Inside the pop top, I found 5 bees nests.  After cleaning up the roof, and the inside of the pop top, I got to installing the seal.  I put the two seals (old and new) together to compare length and learned that the new one had at least 6 inches on the old one, so I started in the middle of the luggage rack figuring I could trim both ends at the perfect length. 

Using the included adhesive, and more on the back side as it would not be seen if extra oozes out, I started installing the seal.  Using a rubber mallet, I made sure the seal was well seated.  It came out well.

The issue I am left with now is the difference in size (of the seal) left a line of paint where the PO's body shop taped up the top, and the new smaller seal does not cover.  Given that next years plan is to repaint the exterior, I am less concerned with the aesthetics as I am the performance of the seal.

The rear was a bit more challenging.  After cleaning the top with simple green and a scuff pad around base 1 inch to remove any residual crap that might interfere with the application of adhesive.

I raised the pop top and placed a 12 inch block in such a manner as to hold it open and give me access to all of the seal area.  I started at the front with the flat seal, using the same method of starting in the middle and working outward, using ample amount of adhesive.

I started on the drivers side, again using ample adhesive and the rubber mallet to set seal in place.  I worked my way around in two foot increments ensuring that the install was neat and properly set.  When I finished with the install and was left with the trimming to do, I was pleasantly surprised to see that it trimmed up well, and that I was able to overlap the flat seal with the bottom seal quite nicely.  Adding a dollop of adhesive under the trimmed flat seal, and securing with a piece of duct tape until adhesive cured.

Even my son got into the act, granted it was with a cookie at the rear table, but he was there.

Happy Easter

After some neighborhood camaraderie this morning and a VERY large brunch feast at my neighbors, I settled in for some light tinkering on the Vanagon.  Mostly some cleaning, as the Thingamajigger needs a bunch of it.  I repaired the refrigerator door moulding as it had shrunk a bit over the years and had prevented the door from closing properly. 

This was achieved by simply removing the door hinges, carefully pulling the T moulding out of the slot that retains it all around the opening and replacing it in a manner that removed the tightness at the corners.  This left a 1 inch gap at the seam which I located behind the lower hinge and disguised.  To make sure the same geometry was maintained, I slipped a small washer behind the upper screw on that hinge so the action of the hinge would not bind.  Problem solved.

While I was doing this, I had an audience.  My better half settled into the front seat, a neighbor into the other and my son pulled up the rear table to exercise some creative license in a new coloring book. Beer was flowing freely and the first one was spilled upon my new foam mat (a Butternut's Pork Slap Farmhouse Ale), and the mat performed flawlessly keeping the hardwood behind it dry and happy.

My son began exploring the cabinetry, finding which ones he could fit into and which ones he could not.

Finally, a few more neighbors came by and it was a party in the Thingamajigger.  Just sitting in the driveway, its already drawing a crowd of interested people.

One happens to be a mechanic, and we discussed getting the transmission out to repair a leaky main seal.  I have ordered a new main seal and O Ring from Go Westy, a clutch kit from the Bus Depot and a felt pinion bearing ring from Van Cafe.  Why all the different places?  Mostly due to availability; if any of the companies had all three, in the brands I wanted and for the price I wanted, I would order all from one place. 

The Bus Depot is closest to me, so I tend to get things quicker and for less delivery cost, but they do not have everything.  Go Westy and their counterpart GoWestyAutoParts.com have a bigger listing but are the farthest away and delivery costs are higher, while Van Cafe is also farther away, their delivery costs as listed on site are even higher.  The felt ring was listed as a 2.00 item, but delivery costs came up as 11.32?  I sent an email inquiring about the possibility of slipping it into a first class envelope, but have not heard back yet.

All to fix a drip . . .



UPDATE: Van Cafe required a call in to them to correct the shipping query.  Turns out the system is automatic and there is nothing they can do unless you call into them.  One call led to a $1.00 shipping charge for the $1.00 pilot bearing felt washer.

Passenger side doors

Had some little things bothering me, and I needed to attend to them

The first was the passenger door.  It had an issue with closing.  I needed to flick the lock in order to allow for it to latch and close properly, and that bothered me.  It was not a big deal, there were and are larger issues to deal with, but today in the rain I got to it.

In the picture, you can barely see the two tabs, with a rusty looking lever between them.  The lever was not finding its way correctly back between the tabs and that would not allow the door handle to reset properly.

I removed the door handle, which gave me access to the lever.  I bent the lever back a bit and problem solved.

Put the handle and lock assembly back together, with a proper dose of grease for the moving parts.

The passenger door had a sagging mirror.  This one is fairly easy to remedy as long as the mirror has not been completely worn out. 

This only applies to non power mirrors, as I have never owned a Westy with power windows and have no clue what their range of adjustment entails.

You first need to remove the two bolts at the base of the mirror from the door.  They are fairly easy to remove.

In the base of the mirror has a nut, spring and washer on a stud.  As long as the spring is not worn out and limp, the nut can be turned and tightened up to take care of the saggy mirror.

Problem two solved.




The third issue involved the slider door.  The latch that holds open the door when slid back all the way was broken.  I did have a piece I bought a while ago, but had other priorities.  To replace it, I needed to remove the access panel that covers the slider rail at the midsection of the Vanagon.

That was the problem.  Two little screws hold that panel on and they were rusted up tight.  Took some doing, but I got them undone and the panel off.  I also needed to panel off so that I can get it to the body shop supplier to have paint analyzed and formula created.

When I got the panel off, my assumptions were realized. I had thought that the Thingamajigger had a period of sitting, and although a number of mechanical needs also supported my beliefs, the finding of this confirms it for me.

 

Starting a new project for the Thingamajigger

My son has termed the Westy the Thingamajigger, after the Cat in the hat series on PBS that he occasionally watches.  I guess its appropriate, they are unlike anything else on the road.

Anyway, as a leftover idea that birthed itself from the Suburban, the overhead console and its adaptation to the Thingamajigger.

This is the unit I salvaged form a Yukon for $15.  I also got the separate overhead lights from the same vehicle.  I like it because 1.) I think I can make it work 2.) I like the directional lights 3.) the compartments opened up a thought process that I will elaborate upon now.






This compartment is made for the inclusion of a garage door opener.  I want to modify it to contain a mount for my GPS unit.

When I removed the door, I took the push button assembly apart, ground down the rear mount tabs, and the buttons mount.  When left with only a button, I super glued it to the door.

When it dried, I took out the dremel and cleaned up the rear of it so that it was as flat as I could get and retain integrity.

This is the panel, and the intended GPS unit that will live here.  What I did in this photo was to cut up some lexan to create a small support shelf on the bottom, and an angled backing to attach some industrial Velcro. 

The shelf will alleviate the weight, so that the Velcro only needs to keep from falling off the panel.

This is what the panel looks installed.

I needed to dremel out the support shelf to clear the opening.  I also dremelled out the hinge a bit to allow for opening a bit more than originally designed.  The initial design allowed for an opening only large enough to slip in the garage door opener.  I opened it up just a bit, so that I have good visibility, and that the weight of the GPS unit keeps constant gravitational down force on the panel so that it does not flutter about while driving. 

The final picture is with the GPS laid into the panel to which it will be mounted.  There is another panel mounted above this one that meets with the headliner.  The second piece will be modified to match better with the headliner contours and recovered with a matching material I have yet to choose and then remounted.

In my plan, I am thinking this material will also be used on the two other light fixtures.  One will be mounted above the rear seat for reading, and another above the rear bed for the same reason.

One less vehicle in the yard

Had a mishap yesterday.  My faithful friend for many miles burnt to the ground on my way to pick up VW parts.

Travelling down 146 in southern Massachusetts, I had a 10 mile spell of bucking and backfiring.  I had thought it was from sitting for three days with very wet weather, but I guess not.

So long my friend.  You will be missed.

Other stuff completed today

Had some other successes today.

Sound deadener in sliding door.  HUGE difference given that I do not have an inner panel on the door yet.  Took a bit of material to do, as it is a large surface area. 

While the dash was apart for the audio install, I also installed the new cigarette lighter / power unit I got from Go Westy.  Now there is one less hole in the dash.

Had the gauge cluster off, so I pulled out the speedo and tested that - and its good.  I used a small wire tie that I cut into 1 inch pieces and mounted 3 together in my screw gun.   Inserted in to speedo and tested good.  I had taken a chance when I ordered the cable, but that paid off nicely as I was able to easily install with the cluster apart.  The other end goes through the spindle, through the hub and attaches to the outer dust cap on the brake caliper hub.  The original I took off used a very small cotter pin, but the new one has a groove cut around it for an e-clip.

Started testing the dash lighting as well.  Made some fairly decent progress, but I think it all comes down to the hard to find bulbs.

Second battery wiring kit is installed, just need a battery.  Isolator is the cylindrical part on top center of picture.  Most of the wires in the photo are awaiting correct placement on new battery or fuse panel

I got a 10 location fuse box, marine style, in the mail today.  That was immediately installed as well, but I cannot really start using it until I get the new battery.  There is a battery specialist local, and maybe tomorrow I will see them.

Tried to install a horn today.  I had a leftover from an older vehicle (I think it was a Pontiac Lemans) that I installed as a temporary until I find my Cadillac 4 note horn.  When I got it installed, I attached the ground, and then the positive lead BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP.  Awww crap, something is not right, and its not the persistent ringing in my ears. I am going to need to pull the steering wheel apart to see where the contact is happening.

Been busy - audio part three.

Forgot what a pain in the ass a decent audio install really is!

Has to have been about 15 years since I did something like this, but it was worth it.  Looks real good and sounds great.

First part was the drivers door speakers, that I did a couple nights ago.  Then yesterday I laid the groundwork for the rest if the system.

Today, I got to putting it all together.  Amplifier was powered up (temporarily through fuse panel, will be permanently attached to second battery), connected to speakers and sealed up in its spot under drivers seat.  New wires run for remote turn on from head unit, speakers tied in to head unit (door speakers not through amp).

Also installed the rear 5.25 speakers after cutting open the stock holes a bit more.  Laminate is brittle, so care must be taken to not trash whats left of a 25 year old cabinet.  The 6x9 speakers were attached to their wires and protective sheathing used.  All of the wires were sheathed in any exposed areas.  Needed to modify the grille for the drivers side upper speaker in order to clear door.  I ran it over the table saw with a 30 degree angle to relieve and remove for abutting up to closet side.

Head unit was powered up (again temporarily, until second battery is installed) and the Ipod cable was attached.  The Ipod cable was run through a hole I dremeled in side of the ash tray, so the connector can reside in there.  The ash tray is also large enough so that the Ipod can be placed inside (unattached) and the door closed so that it is hidden.  Seeing that the ash tray will not be used for smoking in the van, its a good use for it!

A bit of touch up paint to cover where a PO had done a poor install, and it will look as good as new.

My son was very happy to have completed that project. He was a great helper.

The head unit was fitted and set into place, along with its trim ring, and we are done.

Running wires

Spent some time running the new speaker wires today.  What a PITA.

The pain part was keeping everything stealth.  Might have done like the PO did, and ran the speaker wire under the floor, but that did not tickle my fancy.  I chose to go the more arduous route, and run the wires (4 of them) through the cabinetry and completely out of sight while still having access should I need to make a change.

I started from the rear of the van.  Carefully considering the length needed for two runs, I left them connected so that a single loop can be pulled through, rather than two individuals.  The reason will become clear in a moment.  Making sure the wires are not connected to the speaker, as too much pulling might break something, I ran the upper cabinet speaker wires through a hole drilled at the top right corner into the closet.  After later consideration, I now might have done something different, but its done.  I ran the wires through and down the closet wall and fastened them to the wall.  I then covered the wire and fasteners with a white duct tape so that nothing would get ruined in the closet pulling on the fasteners.

I drilled two holes into the panels above the water tank and ran the wires across into the small wiring cubby.  I then ran two wires from the bed pedestal, through the wall into the wiring cubby (the one behind the electrical box) Now I have four wires to run up front from the wiring cubby.

I then ran both loops along the back of the cabinetry, behind the useless fridge with the aid of a wire snake.  Ah ha moment.  The loops allowed an easier pull of the two wires right up through the bottom of the cabinetry without overt contortionism or skinned knuckles.  A hole drilled into the second battery compartment from cabinet at the bottom of the shelf allows for a secure passage into area behind amplifier area.

The passage through the battery area was shielded from chaffing the wires by means of a piece of tubing and a dab of silicone to keep from moving.  Hole is at top corner, so as to avoid any interference with whatever other wiring I put in there.

I then went back and connected the speakers with the proper connectors.  With the rain we have been having, these inside projects are ideal to get completed.  Tomorrow to finish the wiring up to head unit, and get that installed.  I need to contemplate how to get power to system with or without key in ignition.  Maybe a separate switch located in back so I can have music while not in drivers seat. But not have issue if leaving system on accidentally.

Audio

Spent a little time playing with the audio stuff today.

Got drivers door finished.  Stripped door card off, added sound deadener in door and began some crafting.  I chose to replace the stock speaker with a 4 inch Rockford Fosgate and to install a new 5.25 in the bottom of the door. 

I ran two new 16 ga wires through the door, up into the air vent in to the head set hole in the dash.  My concern with wiring is always the chaffing against a metal edge, so I made sure there was plenty of protection.  The wires themselves were encased in a flexible sheath, then covered with a heat shrink tubing right up to the connectors for the speakers.  Tight, clean and will never have to be done again.  The door had the stock rubber grommet that was still in good condition, as was the grommet in the dash area on the top of the air chamber.  Both of these were reused and the new wires for the drivers door were checked for any iterference in the dash with cables or whatever and secured.

The door itself had a plastic air dam in which the glue would no longer stick.  I remedied it with some duct tape.  Sealed it up real nice.

The upper speaker was a bit more involved than I had originally planned.  After stripping out the older speaker, I opened up the hole a bit to accommodate the slightly larger Rockford Fosgate 4 inch speaker.  Two precisely placed metal clips with screw holes would allow for a secure mount for the diminutive speaker.  The process was that the 4 inch RF speakers came with no grilles.  Additionally, there is little to no space for a grille around the manual crank windows.  Those with power windows have less to be concerned with, but that's not my situation.

What I did, was to reuse the stock speaker grille.  I fastened it to a piece of scrap 2x4 and ran it across the table saw a few times until I got what I wanted: a 1 inch tab to which I could locate the grille where I wanted.  Here, I thought I was good, but the tweeter part of the speaker was interfering with the modified grille.  This was cured by a precision 1 inch diameter cut with a hole saw in the center of the grille.  It may not look totally stock, but it works for me.

As for how I secured the modified grille to the door card and still allow for free movement of the speaker?  Shoe goo.  It secured without eating into the vinyl and allowed or ample time to position for a even space around the tweeter.

I still have to refinish the door handle trim.  It was well worn and dried to a point of no longer looking brown.

The bottom speaker was a bit easier, although more anxiety laden.  Cutting into a nice condition door card is bothersome at best, but ensuring you have a secure placement with no interference is key to the install. 

There is a rectangular hole at the base of the door that I used as the majority of the clearance for the 5.25 speaker.  I had only to cut a 1 inch radiused relief in the sheet metal to clear the back of the speaker.  Aligning up the cut in the card was the interesting part.  Keep in mind: measure three times, cut once.  It worked out well, everything lined up just as I had planned.  The top two screws in the speaker are secured tho the door card with two screw clips, and the bottom are directly into the sheet metal of the door.  Secure and clean.

Today was a day to organize.

Was starting to get into groove today with projects I had slated for the day, then I had an issue finding a tool, then gashed my shin on something in the garage while looking for said tool.

That's IT! Today is the day to douche out the garage, because with so many projects, all the van parts, random crap laying around and a child, I cannot get anything done.  I was sufficiently pissed off, and ready for battle.

So at 8:15, properly caffeinated, I started tearing apart the garage.  By 9 I had piles out side the doors, the tractor, the Harleys, a couple tables set up for me to go through stuff and I am sweeping up some speedy dry from a mid winter oil spill.  Looked great, clean and I could get around.  But now I have all this crap to get back in, organize and make ready for continuing the Van project and still have room to move the Harleys, get to storage racks, etc.

By 10 it was pouring, and I needed to get some of the things back in to avoid damage.  Working around all the piles was time consuming, but I got it done and I am much the better for it.

Both Harleys have been started for the first time.  Need a good blast down highway to blow out the winter snot, but I have priorities this year - the Vanagon!

Did get the Vanagons second set of rear speakers laid out.  Ready for an alteration to the cabinet to get them to fit.  Need to go to Lowes tomorrow to get a specific blade for the sawsall.  I modifed the speaker gille with my table saw to get desired fit, but that's for another post.

Also I am feeling the need for a 4 note Cadillac horn to replace the anemic (and broken) stock unit. For something I have pulled out of boneyards for years for less than $20, the 65-70 bucks the monkeys on ebay are asking is a bit outlandish.  I have one in my Suburban that I paid $10 for 8 years ago.  The E420 has a two note horn that even sounds German.  I want something more noticeable, something that says 'get the F*** outta my way, cause once I slow this beast down, its hell to get back going'.

Rear speakers part one

Previous owner had these Yamaha speakers in the bed base.  They are junk now, probably were out of the box.  Anyway, this is the size I had to work with as the holes are already cut.

When I got the speakers off, here are the holes I was left with.  The new speakers did not fit right, and I needed to get out the jigsaw and correct the holes so that the speakers would fit.  Additionally, the PO installed speakers were not aligned correctly, and slanted to the side.

Here are the new Rockford Fosgate speakers installed in the bed pedestal.  With a child and a bit of traditional common sense, I wanted to have speakers with traditional grilles rather than the recent trend towards gaudy pseudo covers with garish colors.

I have a set of Rockford Fosgate 5.25 in speakers for the upper cabinet, but will need to remove the front panel to increase the size of the hole (and add another for the teeeters).

The PITA will be the rewiring for the rear speakers.  The PO had the wires running under the flooring in the rear.  I removed them when I put the floor down, so I will need to run wires.  The upper speaker wires are still in stock location, and I was thinking I could use them to pull through new wires, but again its a project for another day.

Rear floor and amplifier installation

I had previously mentioned finishing the passenger area soundproofing, so with a little ambition and a great helper, we got to finishing the floor. 

First, to be consistent and have a better end result, I needed to finish carpeting the pedestal.  Since I first wanted to open up the pedestal for an audio amp, I broke out the sawsall and went to town. 

 Prepped the area and covered the remainder with sound deadener.  I also covered the second battery area although I will probably need to install some sort of rubber barrier when I finally decide what battery setup I want to go with. 

The amp is here for a test fit and to determine how I wanted to mount it.  Originally, I thought I would drill 4 holes in the pedestal so that I could get a screw gun with extension in there and just screw it down to the floor. 

I decided to go in another direction.  I cut a piece of plywood into a 12x15 rectangle, mounted the amp to the board with some 10-32 screws, some fender washers, a pair of rubber washers per corner and appropriate lock nuts. The board slides in nicely and can be slid out when I need to work on the amp for adjusting, changing speakers or whatever.  The question now is how do I secure the board in there without much space?  Leaving it alone will allow for sliding around, even though the movement will be slight.  Even slight movement has potential for cutting a wire, or touching something it shouldn't.

Decided to go a little ghetto and use Velcro.  A strip of it on each end of the board will keep it in place until I can devise a better scenario.  I do not have much room / clearance to get in there, so any answer will need to be very thin.  Once in the pedestal, the amplifier has a nice amount of space all around it for airflow.  And, as a bonus I have some room on the board to mount other stuff if needed.

So after getting the carpet on the drivers pedestal, I re-installed the wood floor that I had previously cut, and placed in there to see if I liked it.  It went back in as smoothly as it came out.  This time I used a little silicone to secure without having to worry if I needed to do a repair. I think it looks pretty slick with the new carpets. The grey mat is some of that interlocking foam I got at Lowes.  Two panels, with end pieces fits perfectly between bed base and front seat pedestals.  A little trim at the sliding door area, a couple small cut outs at the cabinet base is all that's needed .  Now its childproof!

Still want to get out sandblaster and clean up the sill at the sliding door.  Getting cool out, think rain is due today so it will have to wait.